User manual HAFLER DH-202

[. . . ] Semiconductor Complement: 27 transistors, 12 power Mosfets, 33 diodes, 8 zener diodes, one integrated circuit, one diode bridge. Power Consumption: 240 VA quiescent; 1200 VA @ rated power into 8 ohms, 2 channels Size: 7-l/4" high, 19" wide, 13" deep including handles Net Weight: 45 lbs. Shipping Weight: 49 lbs. CAUTION: For continued protection, replace the power fuse only with the same type and rating as indicated. WARNING: TO PREVENT FIRE OR SHOCK HAZARD, DO NOT EXPOSE THIS EQUIPMENT TO RAIN OR MOISTURE. All rights reserved. INTRODUCTION The Hafler DH-202 is a two channel audio power amplifier designed to the very highest performance standards. [. . . ] 37 29 0 Prepare a 10-1/2" yellow wire. 30 0 Twist the red, yellow and black wires from TSl and TS2 together. Also twist together the green and white wires from TBl and TB2. Place both of these wire groups off to the right of the module. Then turn the module right side up, with the fan away from you, and the wires extending off to the left. When soldering to eyelets (holes) on the circuit boards, the wires will be connected to the outside (top) of the board, but they must be soldered securely to the circuitry on the underside. It is best to heat the eyelet on the inner surface while the wire is inserted from the outside. This requires an iron with a small tip (preferably chisel shaped) and some care on your part. It is easiest to melt a small blob of solder on the tip, and position it at the eyelet so that the solder blob, more than the tip itself, is heating the eyelet. If the eyelet is first filled with solder, and the wire end is pushed all the way through the heated eyelet first, then withdrawn part way to expose a bit of the bare end outside the board before the solder cools, you should have a firmly soldered connection if it cools undisturbed. q q q Always tin a wire that is to connect to an eyelet. After soldering, go back and check by twisting each wire, to make sure nothing moves on the other side of the board. It is wise to check any existing wire connected to an adjacent eyelet, to make sure your work has not loosened it. Connect the other end to relay RY lug #7. 54 0 Prepare a 2" yellow wire. 55 /J Strip a 1-1/2"length of heavy wire bare. Connect one end to large capacitor CL lug X2. Be very sure that these connections are well soldered because they will carry considerable current. (S). 50 0 Select another spade lug and connect it to the free end of the power cord. Connect one end to the lower hole of LT lug #6. Using the lower hole will make it easier for other wires to be connected to the same lug. NOTE FOR MULTIVOLTAGE OPTION: This wire may need to be 1" longer, and may connect to another terminal for some line voltages. 59 0 Place the red, black and yellow wires toward the left and twist them lightly together. Keep these against the chassis and connect the red wire to dual fuse clip FR lug #5. Connect the black wire to the center of the bare wire between the two capacitors CL and CR. Six other wires will be connected to the center of this bare wire. The amplifier will have the lowest hum if the last wire to be connected (from the transformer -a heavy wire) is placed in the exact center of this link between the two capacitors, so leave a small space for it. [. . . ] Because the transformer is so heavy, and a problem there is most unlikely, its removal by unsoldering a few leads is a logical choice. The balance of the amplifier should be insured for at least $700. It is also possible to unsolder the module, and return it, if that is where the only problem lies. However, it requires much more care in packing, to protect the delicate components on the circuit boards, and many more connections must be unsoldered, so there is more risk for reinstallation error. [. . . ]