User manual ADRIAN EMPIRE COMBAT ARROW CONSTRUCTION MANUAL, 2002

[. . . ] The Adrian Empire, Inc. COMBAT ARROWS: CONSTRUCTION MANUAL Adopted July 2001 Amended January 2002 © 2002 The Adrian Empire Inc. , all rights reserved. Anyone is welcome to point out any error or omission that they may find. Imperial Minister of Archery archery@adrianempire. org Empress empress@adrianempire. org Emperor emperor@adrianempire. org Page 2 of 11 Combat Arrow Construction Manual as adopted July 2001, amended January 2002 TABLE OF CONTENTS Preface. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [. . . ] About 30mm thick Availability Any archery store Approx. Cost $9. 00/dozen (bare shafts) or $2. 00/arrow $7. 00 to $8. 00 Head Polyethylene foam Foam plastics manufacturers or camping stores like Big 5 or REI Most furniture stores, shipping or other place where packing material can be found. Do-it-yourself stores Tip Upholstery foam/sponge $2. 00 to $5. 00 a block Blunt cap Rubber Recommended: The caps used to cover the ends of "Closet Maid" closet racks Ideal because they don't add any weight to the arrow. 7mm shell case should be perfect The key is THICK rubber. Plumber's gaskets provide the best strength. $3. 00 for about 100 to 160 caps Plastic Bullet cap (shell cases) Tip divider (between the arrow head and the arrow tip) Thick rubber Sporting goods or gun supply stores Tire shops (for pain rubber). Do-It-Yourself stores (for plumber's rubber gaskets): get the thicker of the available gaskets. Do-it-yourself stores (sold in cans to dip tool handles or as liquid electrical tape) Do-it-yourself stores or carpet stores. Places like Wal-Mart, craft stores, or shipping places. $10. 00/100 $. 78 per 6"x6" sheet Finishing Liquid latex rubber Do not use water-based adhesives as they will fall apart in climatic (damp) conditions. Acceptable substitute for latex rubber MUST have the threads that run through them (for strength). Much preferred over carpet tape if at all possible $5. 00/4-oz can Carpet tape Fiberglass packing tape $5. 00/roll $5. 00/roll Page 6 of 11 Combat Arrow Construction Manual as adopted July 2001, amended January 2002 FIBERGLASS ARROW SHAFTS The arrow shafts MUST be made of fiberglass - NO EXCEPTIONS!The arrow shafts can be made or bought at a local archery store. If you buy whole arrows be sure to cut the arrowhead off. Be sure that the end of the shaft is flat with no sharp edges to it. This manual is written with the minimum specifications in mind which are sufficiently safe. However, maximum efficiency is encouraged and are included here. I encourage you to build them to the maximum specifications. FOAM The main foam MUST be made of polyethylene - NO EXCEPTIONS!There are two (2) different types of foam used to construct the arrows. The first type is known as polyethylene foam (a very common material in camping mats). This foam is the main bulk of our arrow as it is medium-soft, resilient, easy-to-carve and hard-wearing. If you can find it, the ideal thickness is 25mm sheets. The tape MUST have the threads that run through them for strength. This is much preferred over carpet tape if at all possible. [. . . ] It does not allow air to escape on impact which negates the effectiveness of the sponge buffer. CARPET OR PACKING TAPE If liquid latex rubber is not available, carpet or packing tape may be used. Cut two strips to wrap around the arrow and slightly overlap. DO NOT wrap the tape level with the sponge tip. Holding the arrow upright, slice the tape from the edge all the way down to the end of the cone, creating a fringe. [. . . ]