User manual B&W CWM-LCR8

[. . . ] the speakers are balanced for half-space mounting (ie flush in a ceiling or soffit). Placement near a wall/ceiling junction or in a corner may give rise to too much bass and a boomy quality to the sound. The following sections give guidance on optimum positioning, but this may be modified in line with domestic constraints. wARNING: The speakers produce a static magnetic field. [. . . ] Refer to the section drawing of the speaker and ensure that there is enough clearance behind the plasterboard (sheetrock) for the clamps to swing out fully. avoid installing the speakers in the same cavity as flimsy ducting , which may be induced to rattle. The speakers are designed to operate satisfactorily in a wide range of cavity volumes, ideally above 20 litres (0. Should service be required, please follow the following procedure: 1 If the equipment is being used in the country of purchase, you should contact the B&W authorised dealer from whom the equipment was purchased. If the equipment is being used outside the country of purchase, you should contact B&W national distributor in the country of residence who will advise Always try to keep the resistance as low as possible with the loop resistance preferably below 0. Use the table of figure 11 to calculate the minimum gauge of cable required. The back box provides a useful means of defining the minimum volume required. Follow the instructions with the back box for fitting and running the cable. If using a wet plaster finishing method, first paint a layer of PVA adhesive onto the back box before plastering to avoid rattles as a result of the plaster shrinking away from the back box as it dries. If using plasterboard (sheetrock), stick the sheets to the surfaces of the back box using flexible mastic. Rout out the aperture using the flange as a guide. Depending on the diameter of the router, you may need to square off the corners with a saw. In all cases, we recommend not using cement or mortar to fix the back box into the brick or blockwork. Rattles are best avoided by using flexible mastic and wedges. The template is marked with both vertical and horizontal centre lines to aid alignment. Trace round the outer edge of the template and cut neatly just inside the line. To improve the mechanical integrity of the wall and reduce the likelihood of rattles, we recommend you apply a bead of wood glue or mastic along the joints between the back of the plasterboard and the studs in the vicinity of the speaker. Run the cable to the aperture, allowing enough length to comfortably connect the speaker, but not too much, as the excess may rattle against the structure. Fill the wall cavity or back box, but not the space immediately behind the speaker, with unlined fibreglass or mineral wool matting. The packing density should be just enough to comfortably prevent the material from dropping or sagging over time. In an open wall cavity, fill to a distance of at least 30cm (1 ft) above and below the speaker. (figure 8) IMPORTANT: Ensure that the materials you use meet local fire and safety regulations. [. . . ] Before painting the grille, peel off the fabric scrim from the back, otherwise the pores will get clogged and the sound will be impaired. If the scrim does not stay in place properly when replaced, spray the back of the grille mesh (NOT the scrim) with a light coating of 3M SprayMount adhesive or similar. In order for the bass performance not to be compromised, the speaker requires a cavity volume of at least 20 litres (0. This means that, in a standard 10cm (4 in) thick wall, the cavity will extend beyond the boundaries of the speaker frame. [. . . ]