User manual ELECTROIDS 9V USB CHARGER KIT

[. . . ] You have two options for mounting the clip. First, you could use a few small drops of glue (Super, Krazy, whatever) to secure the clip to the bottom of the enclosure, or you could solder it in. To solder it in, you'll simply need to hold the clip in place and fill the two small holes on the bottom of the clip with molten solder and wait for it to dry. The easiest way to accomplish this seems to be to hold the tip of your soldering iron in the center of the hole and keep feeding solder into the tip until a small pool of solder forms that reaches over the top of the clip, then use the tip of the soldering iron to spill the molten solder over onto the clip. [. . . ] I just used my utility blade to Page 4 of 9 poke a hole, then twisted the blade to grind a smooth circle until it was big enough where the light would slide in with some resistance and would stay firmly in place. If you want your toggle switch to be on the outside of the enclosure and not on the inside, you'll want to think about where you want to put the hole for it. You might want to put the switch on the top of the case, or on the side. If you put it on the side, it should preferably be on the same side as the LED. That is, the switch should be between the battery and the LED, moving counter-clockwise inside the enclosure. Attach The Battery Snap Snap the battery snap onto the top of the battery, and use your multimeter or volt meter (attach the red prong of the meter to the exposed metal of the red lead from the battery, and the black prong from the meter to the exposed metal of the black lead from the battery) to make sure that something close to 9 volts is coming through. Boy, that was pretty much a waste of time ­ but at least you know the battery works now. Connect Battery Snap To Voltage Regulator The USB ports on your computer put out exactly 5 volts, so it is important that this USB charge r do just that. Obviously, a 9 volt battery doesn't put out 5 vo lts, it puts out 9. This is where the voltage regulator comes in. The 5v regulator included in this kit will take the 9 volt current from the battery and drop it down to an incredibly steady 5. 00 volts. (The Altoids tin is just holding the wire in place ­ don't freak out) The voltage regulator has 3 pins, a positive input, a positive output, and a negative. Even though power in a circuit flows from negative to positive, the regulator works by regulating the power as it returns to the battery (not as it leaves the battery). This setup effectively tuns the 9v battery into a 5v battery. With the battery removed from the snap, solder the negative (black) lead wire from the battery snap to the negative pin of the regulator and the positive (red) lead wire from the snap to the positive in pin on the regulator, as seen in the diagram matching your particular model. I'm now using two different models of voltage regulators with different pin layouts. If you're using the larger one with the flat body and metal crown, use the above diagram. If yours is smaller and round, see below. To test to make sure all is working properly, connect a 9v battery to the snap and touch the negative prong of your multimeter to the negative pin of the voltage regulator (not the wire, the pin) and touch the positive prong to the positive out pin (the only pin without something soldered to it). If not, be sure you are touching the right pins with the meter and be sure that the wires and soldered to the pins as shown in the picture. Connect USB Socket To Regulator With the exposed pins under the plastic plate in the front of the USB socket facing downward, the pins are designed as follows: Using some of the hookup wire, and making sure that the battery is currently disconnected from the snap, solder a connection from the negative pin on the regulator to the negative pin on the back of the USB socket. Try to be sparing with the length of wire, as having too much spare wire in the final product may make it difficult to fit everything inside the enclosure. Now, solder a connection from the positive output pin on the regulator to the positive pin on the back of the USB socket. To test the socket, connect a battery to the snap and touch the negative prong of the multimeter to the negative solder connection on the back of the socket, and the positive prong to the positive solder point. Alternatively, you could take a spare USB cable and cut it free a few inches from the plug end, strip away the shielding, plug it into the USB socket on your device, and touch the prongs on the multimeter to the exposed metal in the correspondingly-colored wires inside the USB cord you just mutilated. Ground the Positive Socket Termnial It is required that the posi tive terminal/prong of the USB socket be grounded (5G iPods won't charge without a grounded connection. [. . . ] Because we want to add resistance to the current before it hits the LED, you want to connect the resistor to the negative pin from the LED (the negative pin is the shorter of the two). If you like, you can shorten the pins on the LED and the leads on the resistor with scissors or a cutting tool to give you more room, just remember which pin on the LED is the negative one. You can solder one end of the resistor right to the LED's negative pin, or you can solder them together with some wire, then (making sure the battery is disconnected) solder the other end of the resistor to the negative pin of the voltage regulator. There will now be three wires (battery, USB, and LED) connected to the one negative pin on the voltage regulator chip. [. . . ]