User manual SINGER 96-3

[. . . ] Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4 Always keep your work area clear: · Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth. · Do not store objects on the foot controller. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. [. . . ] If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7. 0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width. 1 0. 0 2. 0 5. 5 7. 0 3 4 2 5 6 a Stitch width setting b Distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot c 12. 0 mm (1/2 inch) d 10. 0 mm (3/8 inch) e 6. 5 mm (1/4 inch) f 5. 0 mm (3/16 inch) · For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 56). 84 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Blind Hem Stitching Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto 17 Stitch Name Pattern Application Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto 2. 0 (1/16) 2. 0 (1/16) Manual 1. 0­3. 5 (1/16­1/8) Manual 3 ­ 3 3 ­ 3 Presser Foot 00 00 Blind hem stitch 18 R 1. 0­3. 5 (1/16­1/8) Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure. a hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the from the edge of the fabric. 4 c Attach blind hem foot "R". 3 2 1 3 d a b c d Wrong side of fabric Basting stitching Desired edge of hem 5 mm (3/16 inch) · For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 42). Select a stitch. b then position the fabric with the wrong side Fold back the fabric along the basting, and facing up. 2 · For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). e hem against the guide of the presser foot, and Position the fabric with the edge of the folded then lower the presser foot lever. 1 a Wrong side of fabric b Basting 1 b a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Guide c Blind Hem Stitching 85 UTILITY STITCHES -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is too far to the right. Press to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. f catches the fold of the hem. Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly 1 a Needle drop point When you change the needle drop point, raise the needle, and then change the stitch width. 1 1 2 a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric · For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 56). g presser foot guide. h Sew with the fold of the hem against the Remove the basting stitching. a Stitch width If the needle catches too much of the hem fold The needle is too far to the left. Press to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. 1 2 a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric 1 2 a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric 86 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. 10 stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes, one for sewing on buttons. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto 48 Stitch Name Pattern Application Horizontal buttonholes on thin and mediumweight fabrics Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics Buttonholes for stretch fabrics Bound buttonholes Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics Keyhole buttonholes for mediumweight and thick fabrics Horizontal buttonhole for thick or plush fabrics Button sewing Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto 0. 4 (1/64) 0. 4 (1/64) 0. 4 (1/64) 0. 4 (1/64) Manual 0. 2­1. 0 (1/64­1/16) 0. 2­1. 0 (1/64­1/16) 0. 2­1. 0 (1/64­1/16) 0. 2­1. 0 (1/64­1/16) 0. 5­2. 0 (1/32­1/16) 1. 0­3. 0 (1/16­1/8) 0. 2­4. 0 (1/64­3/16) 0. 3­1. 0 (1/64­1/16) 0. 3­1. 0 (1/64­1/16) 0. 3­1. 0 (1/64­1/16) ­ Manual 3. 0­5. 0 (1/8­3/16) 3. 0­5. 0 (1/8­3/16) 3. 0­5. 0 (1/8­3/16) 3. 0­5. 0 (1/8­3/16) Presser Foot 5. 0 (3/16) 5. 0 (3/16) 5. 0 (3/16) 5. 0 (3/16) 49 50 51 3 A 52 Buttonhole stitch 6. 0 3. 0­6. 0 1. 0 (15/64) (1/8­15/64) (1/16) 6. 0 3. 0­6. 0 1. 5 (15/64) (1/8­15/64) (1/16) 5. 0 (3/16) 7. 0 (1/4) 7. 0 (1/4) 7. 0 (1/4) 3. 5 (1/8) 0. 0­6. 0 (0­15/64) 3. 0­7. 0 (1/8­1/4) 3. 0­7. 0 (1/8­1/4) 3. 0­7. 0 (1/8­1/4) 2. 5­4. 5 (3/32­3/16) 2. 0 (1/16) 0. 5 (1/32) 0. 5 (1/32) 0. 5 (1/32) ­ 53 54 55 56 57 Buttonsewing stitch 61 M Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 87 UTILITY STITCHES -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Buttonhole sewing The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. 1 1 1 1 a Reinforcement stitching The names of parts of buttonhole foot "A", which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. a and length of the buttonhole. Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position 1 1 2 5 3 a Marks on fabric b foot "A", and then insert the button that will Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole be put through the buttonhole. 4 A a b c d e Button guide plate Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inch) 88 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch). ) d Select a stitch. 1 2 3 3 · For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). e buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (diameter + thickness of button) c 5 mm (3/16 inch) Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale. 1 2 a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch) Position the fabric with the front end of the the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever. 1 The size of the buttonhole is set. c A 2 a Mark on fabric (front) b Red marks on buttonhole foot Attach buttonhole foot "A". · For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 42). Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. · For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page 83). a Wrong side of fabric 94 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- e and then baste the zipper in place. Align the seam with the center of the zipper, h Select stitch 3 . 2 1 3 a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stiching c Zipper · For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). CAUTION When using zipper foot "I", be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. i Remove about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of f the basting on the outside. 2 3 4 1 3 Topstitch around the zipper. a b c d Wrong side of fabric Zipper basting Outside basting 5 cm (2 inches) 1 2 3 g of zipper foot "I". Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin 1 4 I 2 a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point · For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 42). a b c d Stitching Right side of fabric Basting stitching End of zipper opening CAUTION When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break. j Remove the basting stitching. Zipper Insertion 95 UTILITY STITCHES -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- d wrong side of the fabric. Press open the seam allowance from the Inserting a side zipper Stitching is visible on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings. 1 1 2 a Wrong side of fabric e (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra Press the seam allowance so that the right side 3 mm (1/8 inch). 3 a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening 1 The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration. a Attach zigzag foot "J". Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening. other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening. · For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page 83). 2 a Wrong side of fabric b 3 mm (1/8 inch) f the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), b With the right sides of the fabric facing each Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of and then baste or pin the zipper in place. c edge of the fabric. Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the 1 2 1 3 2 4 a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching g of zipper foot "I". Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot. a b c d Basting stitching Reverse stitches Wrong side of fabric End of zipper opening 1 I 2 a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point · For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 42). 96 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- h Select stitch 3 . j end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever. k Open the zipper and continue sewing. · For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). CAUTION When using zipper foot "I", be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. i extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base l baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric. Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then 3 Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the 1 of the zipper. a Basting stitching m of zipper foot "I". Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin If the presser foot holder was attached to the right pin in step g, change it to the left pin. 1 CAUTION When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break. 2 I a Pin on the left side b Needle drop point Zipper Insertion 97 UTILITY STITCHES -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- n Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper Topstitch around the zipper. opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot. 3 2 1 4 5 a b c d e Right side of fabric End of zipper opening Reverse stitches Beginning of stitching Basting stitching CAUTION When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break. o end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever. p and then continue sewing. Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper, 98 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Zipper/piping Insertion A zipper and piping can be sewn in place. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto Straight stitch (left needle position) 1 Stitch Name Pattern Application Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and piping Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto 2. 5 (3/32) Manual 0. 2­5. 0 (1/64­3/16) Manual 0. 0­7. 0 (0­1/4) Presser Foot 0. 0 (0) There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a piping are described below, with the adjustable zipper/piping foot. Inserting a centered zipper a zipper" (page 94). d the presser foot. Loosen the positioning screw on the back of 3 Refer to step a­e of "Inserting a centered b holder (page 44) to attach the screw-on Remove the presser foot and presser foot adjustable zipper/piping foot. 1 a Positioning screw e right feed dog. Slide the presser foot over either the left or Note Use a screw driver to securely tighten the screw that holds the presser foot. If the screw is loose, the needle may break and cause injures. Left sewing position Right sewing position f does not touch the presser foot. Change the needle position so that the needle For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 56). 1 a Needle drop point Zipper/piping Insertion 99 UTILITY STITCHES -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CAUTION After adjusting the needle position, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check the needle does not touch (counterclockwise) the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. g screwdriver. Inserting a piping a out, as shown below. Place the piping between two fabrics inside 1 2 3 a Fabric b Piping c Fabric b zipper/piping foot on the previous page. Securely tighten the positioning screw with a Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable a Positioning screw h c Sew along the piping. Topstitch around the zipper. 1 2 3 d After sewing, turn them over. 4 a b c d Stitching Right side of fabric Basting stitching End of zipper opening CAUTION When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break. i Remove the basting stitching. 100 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto Stretch stitch 2-point zigzag stitch 3-point zigzag stitch Elasticattaching stitch 5 Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto 2. 5 (3/32) 1. 0 (1/16) 1. 0 (1/16) 1. 0 (1/16) Manual 1. 0­4. 0 (1/16­3/16) 0. 2­4. 0 (1/64­3/16) 0. 2­4. 0 (1/64­3/16) 0. 2­4. 0 (1/64­3/16) Manual 1. 0­3. 0 (1/16­1/8) 1. 5­7. 0 (1/16­1/4) 1. 5­7. 0 (1/16­1/4) 0. 0­7. 0 (0­1/4) Presser Foot Stretch fabrics 1. 0 (1/16) 5. 0 (3/16) 9 10 Attaching elastic 5. 0 (3/16) Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics 4. 0 (3/16) J 34 3 Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations. Stretch stitching a Elastic attaching When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. [. . . ] 9, 65 knee lifter mounting slot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11, 65 L layout adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 LCD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 158 LCD button . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 LCD messages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 LCD operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18, 158 leather/vinyl fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 M machine surface cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 main power switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 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